Exploration Kentucky

 

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Adventure in Kentucky

Rock Climbing in Kentucky  

 

Eastern Kentucky

 

Cave Run Lake - Some of the best bouldering in the state. 

Clack Mountain - Comprised of Sandstone. Semi-dense bouldering. 40 + problems. Great slabs, slopers, and steep pockets. Home to the mega-classic Three Pocket Problem. Note to Climbers: The first rock formation you come to in the first half mile are on private property and are therefore closed to climbing. 

Directions: From Lexington, KY drive east on I-64 to Morehead. Take Morehead exit, turn right onto Flemingsburg Road. Go 2 miles into town. Turn right on to US 60 west. A quarter of a mile turn left on to KY Rt. 519. Go 2 miles until you crest Clack Mountain. Turn left on to Clack Mountain Road. First bouldering area is on the right about 1/2 mile ahead. 

    Elkhorn City

    Center Creek: 6-9 creekside boulders

 

Routes

Difficulty 

Ascents

Bartalk

V3

1

Center Warm-up

V0

1

Hardtimes Traverse

V5

0

Idle Chatter

V2

1

Memories

V4

0

The Prow

V0

1

Grayson Lake/ Climbing Sections

       Arete Wall - More bouldering than route climbing. Routes ranging from 15-20 ft. with a nice section of problems. Most routes have adequate water depth, some have 6-10 feet. 

Routes

Difficulty 

Ascents

AW1

V0

0

        Clifty - Right off of 986. Short walls with jumping spot

        Neyer's Cove - Route climbing more than bouldering. Main wall is in 3 ledge systems. First ledge system ends at 30 feet. Second ledge system ends at 50-55 feet. The top system ends at 65 feet. 

Routes

Difficulty

Ascents

bw1

5.10a

0

bw2

5.9

0

         Pocket Wall - Pocket wall; across from Neyer's Cove 

 

Routes

Difficulty

Ascents

PW1

V3

0

        Sex Rock - Good warm-up area. Bouldering more than route climbing.

 

Routes

Difficulty

Ascents

warm up 1

V0

0

warm up 2

V3

0

Red River Gorge (Bouldering)

        Emerald City - Great boulderfield on a bench below main wall along the trail to Global Village and near the Route Yellow Brick Road. 

 

Routes

Difficulty

Ascents

Short Traverse

V0

0

Traverse on Slopes

V1

0

Unknown

V0

0

Unknown Slab

V0

0

        Friction Slab - Little boulder on right side of road. Great friction problems on front side. 

        
Routes Difficulty Ascents
5.8 to 5.10 5.9 1
Dog Days  5.10d 1
Table Top 5.11d 3
The Bulldog V8 1

        Gun Ridge - Long and arduous approach that produces great bouldering spread out over a half hour walk. Some problems. 

        Jump Rock - On Red River. One problem up the face. 

        
Routes Difficulty Ascents
Unknown 1 5.10e 0

        Left Flank - Couple of traverses and a boulder at the left end of the left flank crag. 

        

Routes

Difficulty Ascents
Employees in Action - 1

        Long Walk - Great problems near the wall. Perpetual dry problems near RW/Autunm. 

        Lower Small Wall Bouldering - High quality roadside bouldering. Mostly moderate with some V4-V6 potential. 

        Directions: 6 miles past the steal bridge on HWY 715. Park on right. Boulders on left. 

        

Routes

Difficulty

Ascents

Aptly Names V1

-

0

French Feet V3

-

0

Seven-Ten split V0+

-

0

Slopey Joe V3

-

0

The Weasel V3

5.11c

0

        Middle Earth - Great highballs. Vertical problems with good top outs and landings. 

        

Routes

Difficulty

Ascents

Crumbler V1

5.10d

0

Eve of the Dragon V1

5.10d

0

Narrow Escape V1

5.10d

0

Pastry Power V2

5.11b

0

Ray's Traverse V?

-

0

SCIN Arete V0

5.9

0

Sleepwalker V0

5.8

0

Yellow Jacket V2

5.11b

0

        Pistol Ridge - Sport/Trad Climbing 

        Directions: Park at intersection of road 9a and 9b. Walk down the road to the right, look for trail. 

        

Routes

Difficulty

Ascents

Dreams

V4

2

        Purple Valley - Some bouldering near wall on boulders. Almost all have topouts. 

        Roadside Crag - Bouldering on the start of climbs. Some traversing.

        

Route

Difficulty

Ascents

Sketch

V6

1

Big Boulder

V1

0

Long Traverse

V2

0

        Sky Bridge Ridge - Great setting with casual approach

        

Routes

Difficulty

Ascents

Buddha Head (Sit Start)

-

3

Detox

V3

4

Double Helix

V4

2

No Inhibitions/Wino Dyno

V3

5

The Fonz

V6

2

The Pearl

V6

1

Wet 'n' Tasty 

V1

2

        The Cafe 80's - Near a popular crag. 

        Coffee Shop - Wallering. Near Torrent and short approach.

        

Routes

Difficulty

Ascents

The Buckeye Shutdown

5.12c

0

Baked

5.11c

0

Bluegrass

5.8

0

Daily Grind

V4

0

Flying

V6

0

Fresh Beans

V5

0

Java

V4

0

Licker

V1

0

Mocha

-

0

Off Beat

5.10d

0

Old America

V6

0

Pinch Hitter

V3

0

Straight Out

V6

0

The Business

V5

0

The Watch Tower

V6

0

        The Cove - Popular walleriing wall near Nada Tunnel. Some good problems, but no top outs. All roofs. 

 

Routes

Difficulty

Ascents

Corner Problem

V9

0

Domestic Violence

V7

0

Donkey Dick Traverse

V4

0

Fame and Money

V8

0

Ghetto Methods

V10

2

Grover

V2

0

Happy Days

V5

0

Hobbies Delight

V5

0

Kryptonite

V6

1

More than a Broke Ankel

V4

0

Naked Truth

V3

0

Project

-

00

The Roof Problem

V3

1

Warm-Up

V0

0

       

 

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Exploration Kentucky
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Revised: March 27, 2008 03:03:15 PM